16 @ Moab to Rifle

A big day in the saddle. Hot too boot. After Archer Park, Canyonlands and Dead Horse Canyon will have to be good! After we lucked it in a 3 week old motel with an upgrade we headed outta town to Dead Horse park named after the fact that cowboys heralded a mob of stallions across canyon top narrows and fence need them in. The story goes that tho there was the Colorado river some 2000' below they died of thirst. Made Lenore sad that bit. Spectacular views, mini Grand Canyon with rock stratas, erosion and that stuff imaginable, or if not just look the pix. The Canyonlands road is was twisty which makes the throttle hand a little heavy until I got a short flash by a passing sherrif. It's good they warn you if your a little over. Watched the rear view mirror as we tore off enjoying the bends, Lenore acting professionally leaning over the bike to capture the action.

Refused to stop at the visitors centre. They are a trap, you end up watching a tv, collect brochures and spend too much time rather than breathing it all in. Lenore needed some consolidation. Rode to the end of the road in the park so we could work our way back. We had the opportunity to catch a Rangers geological talk. Mmm, sounds worth hanging around for!

She began by talking about herself, yes she was an ex-teacher, junior, real junior I would say. Before long she asked her class to tell her where they were from. At this point I had buried myself deep in my iPad, no eye contact, brim shading my face. Lenore was asked to stand and show and tell. Well almost! After the rounds were complete she pulled out her picture boards complete with the text area together with personal touches and nice boarders. Mmmm it's getting better. We sat in the sun waiting for geology until she said when it rains little rivers are formed, they go looking for bigger rivers who in turn find the biggest river and then they look for the sea! I find that amazing. A bloke in the audience equally bemused by her talk said 'you call that gravity'? And she replied but it sounds so much more fun my way! We excused ourselves leaving the deep geological talk to the others!

Back to Moab, fuelled and up the Colorado river. That was a real treat with towering red cliffs in such a narrow canyon, weaving back on itself. The road was in disrepair and covered with black bitumen snakes. I hit a comer too hard and slipped over the double yellow lines with the only blessing there was no on-coming traffic. What a wonderful ride. This contrasted when we hit 70, the main free way back to colorado. Hot, un-interesting, tired, bum sore. A bit of shut eye. Only blinking.

Got to Fruita, on the outskirts of Grand Junction and went to a visitors centre. A couple of road rules here were stretched until we parked and fell on the grass in the shade for a 10 min recovery before we could enter the building. As always the system of support the visitors centres offers is an oasis. This older couple, of course volunteers, gave us all the info we needed, shared stories, gave coffee and when I added a few breakfast stolen sweet pastries the decision was made to continue along 70 to Rifle. The freeway was interesting, the town a little tired. We did the exit right but before we knew it we were back on the entry. That won't do, jumped the curb after Lenore dismounted and rode back towards oncoming traffic but on the grass. Oh well the technique worked! Lol Retreated to Comfort Inn by name. Chatted to another biker where we parked our bikes, yes wearing a piece. Oh well Rifle by any other name!

15 @ Durango to Moab....nope, Gunnison

Sorry with the heading, there was a wife innovention. That was my plan, leaving open the opportunity to go to Yellowstone NP required to hoof it a bit and get to Moab today and on to Yellowstone the day after, but, how can I say, weather or wives things change. So we jumped on the million dollar highway and though I didn't pay for it, it's worth every cent! One of the greatest rides in the country, that might have been said before! It offered everything, views, passes, sweepers all with great weather.
With a few stops for ohhs and ahhhs and the necessary pix we got too Silver-ton. Coffee time. To explain that further, coffee is not as it sounds in this country it's rather like instant but dripped! But we came across a potential shop and as always put the challenge out? Firstly we don't want a minimum 8 oz mug, let's try 5, and give us a double shot in that. Coffee is extracted separately in a shot glass and milk is muddled and both are poured into a mug. That said it remains our best coffee!

So Lenore wanted a shot of a RV park which was noticed on the way in. Through a town with such a name the side streets were gravel, we turned down the few streets and behind the main there as great activity! A large number of old vehicles were preparing for some sort of parade. We wanted to view this, pulled over and got into the action taking lots of pix of a variety of old vehicles ranging from trucks, cars and other stuff! Yehaa a red neck vehicle convention. Bit of fun.

That side trip soaked up time as did the superb ride to Ouray, the stops and pix taking. Gunnison got close as the heavens opened up? It rained heavily on us so in a scuttle for refuge we got into a store called Murdocks, kinda like a Big W for farmers. This execution lost us a good hour and some cash. Lenore didn't stray too far from the horse stuff and the bike saddle bags filled up even more. Even the dogs at home got presses!
The rain passed and on the Gunnison NP. The black canyon! Was amazing, rode to the river, back up and began stopping at the most amazing view points. Black because of steepness of sides and lack of light penetrating its depths. Anyway lots of views all cut short by rain, fog and incovience. With the thought of Yellowstone fading we retreated to the junction some 30 miles back, yep still in the rain and found refuge in Ridgeway. Pizza and beers, a dry bed and sleep knowing that another plastic breakfast awaits!

14 @ Mesa Verda

Pretty drive from Durango, another Wild West town. Someone said the closest city to here is in New Mexico, Albuquerque. Anyway we seem isolated and with a limited population in the Montazuma Valley. Nice ride into the park, climbing to gain long distant views. Entered the park and went on the Cliff Palace tour at noon. Around 1200 AD Pablo people came off the cliff tops where agricultural practices of growing maize and squashes. Theses cliffs faced south at 7%, giving them 20 more growing days a year and a method of catching water and irrigating. They lived in Kivas, round cellars with a ladder descending from the centre, fire place. Ah a new name for my man cave!

Our second tour took us to the Balcony, situated on a rock ledge and having stunning views. Walked down a path against a cliff, climbed a big ladder, thru a gap and onto a ledge. Got the brief and then thunder and the rain started. And then the heavens opened up. The rock cliffs turned on the waterfalls whilst we stood hemmed in. Great experience but after while, a long while, we had to leave. Climbed out, up ladders, chain walkway to the top where, closer to heaven it was even wetter. Time to go. Under a thatched shelter we got redressed, best we could for the long trip down out of the park and back to Durango. The rain got heavier, the roads were sheeting and progress was dubious. We had a ways to go! The bike did its thing giving me security to a point and trust. Cars pulled over to let us pass in the steep park decent so we didn't have to sit in their spray. The weather as we got lower didn't abate but increased. 40 mls to go. Man it got heavier. Speed decreased but the desire to get to drier ground in the safe refuge of a motel spurred us on. Phaa, they call it wet weather clothing but not for this weather! I focused on the conditions that were thrown at us and yes the thoughts of beers and wine were simplified and ended up as hot tea, chocolate and a sip of the Cointreau with dry clothes kept us safe?

Back in our room converted to a Chinese laundry the sun came out and lifted our room temp reaching 90F and the desire to get out became overwhelming. Wet clothes hung everywhere. Jackets towed dried, boots up turned stuff in the bathroom dripping. Ingeniously the hair dryer was propped up against soap and shampoo blowing revitalising hot air into the gloves in anticipation for the run tomorrow.

Dinner was in a bar that had too many beers to choose from and too noisy to stay. Wandered the main drag, passing up the desire to buy more trinkets, tshirts and presents for family's. After all how much is too much! Passed up some music in an Irish bar which sounded good but hectic yet edged on by the cowgirl in Lenore ending up in the Wild West salon down town Durango. Did I say local. Mention redneck, dunno. But the music was both country and western and all between. Everyone wore boots, many hats. There were fine fellows, grey in hair with pony tails, loose flowing mains and those with handle bar moustaches and tall hats! There were cougars on the prowl, neckin on the dance floor and pool being played at the back. Sounds perfect doesn't it! There were girls in, well all sorts of attire! Shorts n boots, skirts n boots hats, clothing too tight, too short too....it doesn't matter. The local beer was a little less than desirable but gave us an accessory needed so we ended siting on a fire place, next to a rubbish bin. Nice! However the grand plan was to blend in and sneak a few snaps of each other whilst mingling. Did it work, dunno but got some fun pix of the ummm, locals! So as tourists we got a number of shots to remind us if we ever think of straying away from rock n roll, don't! Lol

Anyway that was our day.

13 @ Gunnison to Durango

For those with an iPad if you hit p and backspace together, usually by mistake your complete text disappears in notes. I'm not sure if the software greats from Apple know that. I found that out last night completing this story. So for me I have to tell it again. The best part is with a fresh beer. So not wanting to repeat myself but here goes.
Having to circumnavigate the Gunnison mountain because of the Pro challenge Lenore wanted to see a bit of the park. We headed off in Montrose direction for 20 miles or so but disillusioned in seeing only a reservoir with a highway next to it we decided to back track and head down 141 to Wolf creek pass Pagosa Springs.

A small paved road with little traffic, alpine vistas you know quite picturesque. Time to rest and take our bums for a walk so we stopped at a small mining town Lake City. Couple of quaint buildings. Shortly outta town we stopped on a lookout to look at Redcloud peak @14034' and got talking to three bike travellers. The one that had the Gs (like mine) told the history tale that 6 men got lost in the mountains out of the town we had just visited in the late 1800s. Six months later only one returned, who was later being crowned in being the only cannibal conviction in the States.
We continued on and looked at the headwaters of the Rio Grande river, on thru alpine sodden pastures with small water holes punctuating the brightest of grass. We heard that these bikers were stopping at a mining town Creede for lunch and thought we would at least look at the town. Approaching the Main Street we were drawn up the street, beyond the town limits into a canyon where all the early mining had taken place. Fascinating relic mines, stamping mills and railway so much one wonders how hard it was to make an income setting up let working the mines.

Continued on to Wolf Creek Pass 10,800' (don't you love that name) and down where some nice pictures highlight the greenness and greatness of it all. Pagosa Springs was a burrito for, again a 3pm lunch (curse those big plastic breakfasts)!

And on to the mining town of Durango!

12 @ Bike time

Collected the bike late this arvo. Man what a day. Drove from Fort Collins to the hustle of Denver, went to suss out BMW gear, headed off to another bike store back to BMW armed with a bent credit card armed with biking gear. New rain gear, great Held gloves x2 pairs, new Sidi boots x 2 a Klim jacket, we're ready!

Checked into hotel, dropped off bags and gear and headed to the airport in the rain and in peak hour. 4 to 5 lanes both ways bumper to bumper, travelling at breakneck sped, but still flowing with not much stress. Similar to playing GTA on speed! What a big place. Getting rid of the car was easy, yeah right! Shuttle to the airport, taxi to collect the bike. The bike I might add is a BMW, to no ones surprise, a 2013 RT1200, a 90 yr anniversary model but using a different credit card card which being bent beyond breaking it still works. Rode the bike back to the hotel, easy. Next part took a bit of stress. Lol Packing. I think that words need greater definition! How can a man put his boxers in the same size pannier as a woman with her 'smalls'! Man my pannier holds like only a couple whereas a woman's smalls contains a years worth.

Still with poking and prodding, choosing then discarding, that all sounds a bit weird, but soon we have enough clothes squeezed into these minute cases as to appear decent after a day in the saddle. If not happy hour will compromise. No one knows us! Anyway packed and ready to go after a refreshing sleep. So with another plastic breakfast we rode down highway 6 to get to Denver Bmw to swap my boots, then 85 to get out of Denver, swapped over to 285, got off on 24 then went up 291 back to 285, then 114 and whatta ya know 50 took us where we wanted... Gunnison. Easy as ABC or 123......no don't do that one! Lol that's the days journey. Backtracking a bit after 285 we ended in Salida and caught the USA Pro cycling race and watched the vehicles and riders hurtle thru. Michael Rogers was leading so good for the Aussie bit and I made a bit of noise in the crowd to enjoy the moment!
It is always good to see such a professional race and the town was organised with spectators only on footpaths, ordered by a woman waving a big orange stick as the riders, cars and motorbikes speed past. So even with a bit of a rush, it threw our plans to be out of the saddle and in a hotel by mid afternoon because of the monsoonal rains. So with a welcomed delay we hit the high road to Gunnison but found it was still out of bounds. The cyclists were finishing on our planned route so after lining up and talking to traffic policemen we took...what was it, 114 and then 50 as to get to our destination tho later than expected.. With a little rain, avoiding the higher pass of Monarch that the cyclists had to endure we rode through the cute town of Saguache, wosh, and a wonderful little canyon of Cochetopa which Lenore tried to video from the bike. All good, first day in the saddle, bikes fresh, like the rides and many more miles expected. Everyone refers to numbers and with out them who knows where you would end up? Found ourselves a Comfort Inn and retired from our bike gear. A beer(s), followed by a restaurant meal where we discovered from our young waiter that Ranch dressing is more versatile than tomato sauce and has no equal! Bed for 2!