Wednesday 29 August 2018

#4 Russia - May 2018

RUSSIA

 Khabarovsk, Russia

Another random event. Kym Osborne met a guy outside who invited us to a party having recognized him from the bike ride.
So we went, he pick us then to bottle shop. You can see the beer taps on the wall in the shop then they fill 2 liter plastic bottles.
Turns out this party is being held by the “Iron Tigers” who have chapters in at least 2 city’s,Khabarovsk and Vladivostok. 
It was held at cafe/motel so everyone paid for food. Too much food the table was just starters.
The people at the table Kym and Tony Shuman with Yura and his wife.
All the people there could not be more friendly. Felt like anyone with any English wanted to talk to us.
A young woman said she and table could hear us and her table where pleased to hear us and to talk but at first where a bit shy.
The owner took us on a tour of his motel including bike showroom and workshop.
Nothing like motorcycle outlaw just a group of people that where colours.
And I got a hug from the club president just to emphasize how friendly they where.















Smidovich, Russia 


2058 klms to chiti

The cemetery have trees
Kym Osborne in his new house
The creek acts as the road
Pool with Tony Shuman 
Walk through the village
















Obluch’ye, Russia


On the road


Obluchye in Jewish autonomous district


















Magdagachi, Russia 


Magdagachi: aged wooden houses c. 1935. Invited in to share a cuppa after being sprung snooping around their garden



















20 May: 


So just when you think you are in a routine, everything gets turned around. Russia. We got arrested. But I have to fill in the details first. 
So Kym Osborne lost a pannier, it fell of somewhere, so after going back on numerous occasions it was never recovered. In the mean time Lenore his wife and myself waited hours at the truck stop for Kym and Tony to return. Again the Russian people, so good, this fella came along with a bottle of windex and cleaned my fairing and then insisted I keep the bottle even though I protested I had no room.
We then had another group Val, Misha, and Misha start talking to us through google translate, they then proceeded to book at hotel for us, waited an hour for Kym and Tony Shuman to return then took us to the next town an hour away in there direction and help us book in.
Arrested. So Kym and Lenore went to the local coppers to report the missing case for insurance and the slight hope it might turn up. The three guys went with them to help.
I had gone straight to bed as I am a bit sick and about 7 ish got a knock on the door with an interpreter asking if I could come to the police station along with Tony.
After spending 3 hours at the Immagration office, finger printed, questioned again and again turns out our visas are technically invalid for our purpose. We where aware of this but had not thought it an issue. There are tourists visa which allow you to enter the country once only so with that you cannot go into Mongolia and return to Russia. So everyone gets a business visa and as we where not there on business and hadn’t contact our “business on our visa” we where in breach.
So after 3 hours the immigration lady, the local English teacher, the police officer and us finally got to go home.
For what? A 2,000 ruples, OMG but hang on, $40 each.
Russian bureaucrat. The English teacher didn’t get paid and the others certaintly wouldn’t get OT.
They where a bit cold at first but very friendly by the end. Laughing and chatting. They gave us a lift home and went out of there way to get some dinner for us.
Worth the $40 for the story.

Forgot to mention Kym an Lenore where having the same issues at the cop shop.












Smolenka, Russia


Well what an interesting day. The countryside has changed, no trees, not sure if it’s for fire wood or crops. 
Lada police car.
Val whom help us to our last motel lives in Chita so having prearranged it we met him outside Chita. He took us to a hotel and to his house. This is his summer house where they and their grandparents live for four months, the rest of the year they live in separate apartments in the city.
The whole garden is a vegetable garden with a glass house, I think it’s the national pastime. The apple tree gets buried along with the raspberries. The put cloths over the plants and cover them in dirt to protect them from the snow.
All the communication was via the daughter and grandmother whom had a little English and google translate (so useful) so when it was time for the fellas to have sauna we really had no idea what we where in for.
So we get strip to undies following Val’s lead but no we don’t stop there, and there’s no going back. So off we go myself Kym Osborne, Val and his mate Sasha fully naked into the sauna. After 5 or so minutes we get a break and splash coldish water on ourselves, then back in.
But this time I an invited to lay down on the bench and Misha proceeds to douse me with the wet branches in the tub which has the effect of intensifying the heat from 70 decrees by another 10 at least but then the branches are brushed down your body. I was only just copping, it was unbearable so when they ask me to turn over I had to back down and recover in the beer room. So they then bought out beer and we had another break. Then it was Kym’s turn so I went back with them to see him suffer.
The had the temperature at 70 but normally it’s 100 and the will do this routine for 3 or 4 hours.
The last picture is this amazing family whom I cannot praise enough for there hospitality and friendship. Smorgasbord of food wine beer vodka and friendship. Then they all drove us back to our hotel except the grandparents to say goodbye.


















From Chita to Ulan Ude with Tony Shuman and David Hudson today with polite redirections, fantastic scenery from open plains, aged villages, road works, sweeping forested roads, katabatic winds, freezing cold to an amazing hotel in Ulan Ude. And then there’s David’s cold. All in a days ride. Love it.










Let me introduce my travelling companions. Seven of us shipped six motorcycles together. Moving left to right we have Amy on a BMW GS 310 who is a marshal at a BMW rally in Mongolia, as she was running late she caught a train and as such hasn’t travelled with us.
Brett on a Drz 650 and Yvonne on a XT 250 started out on the first day with us but unfortunately Yvonne crashed after getting speed wobbles. Her and her bike have since recovered and are on the road again, following our path.
Then we have Lenore and Kym whom are sharing a BMW 800, they are retired and have a farm near Victor Harbour.
Then Tony on Drz 400, which has been geared up to cop with the speeds well in excess of 120 klms. His Croatian background gives him a distinct advantage with communication as both languages have similarities.
Both Kym and Tony’s regular rides are GS 1200 but decided they where to big for this journey.



Ulan-Ude, Russia


Visiting Ulan ude was a treat. The Buddhist temple, museum and examples of early architecture. At the temple had to walk 20 paces with ones eyes closed and touch the rock making a wish. This got a few laughs with Tony Shuman and David Hudson just missing the mark.
Tried green tea with milk, local dumplings and noodle soup as authentic dishes. It is impossible to order from menus which even google can’t translate. So Borsch has become the staple.
Snowed this morn so first wet day. On to Irkutsk.















Irkutsk, Russia 


We have an apartment in Irkutsk for four nights living a bit of luxury with views to the river.










Great day today. Tony Shuman and I got some bike stuff done then bought tools with great service and help so had to include her pix.
Caught up with Lenore and David Hudson who were slumming it in our Airbnb before hoofing it into town for 200R.
Wandered the streets in down town Irkutsk and immersed ourselves in architectural stuff. The town prospered from a elite class of people who fled there and their eclectic style is evident. It is one of the best remaining examples of this style of building in Russia. The towns beginning was with the Cossacks who I believe came and made a deal offering added protection to the locals and became partners in the late 1600s. 
Haha so bare with all the pix. More will follow.
And for you Gary Parker a cement mixer to remind you other others know how.






















Free range guns, tho licences are required, to main mall shot, Tony on the street and the wonderful market scenes. While David Hudson in the Kawasaki dealer wishful for a winter expedition.
















Listvyanka, Russia


Listvyanka, an hour away from Irkutsk on Lake Biakal. Touristy but interesting. Ivan a devoted animal handler shared his animal passion. The Bear is a 15 mth baby eating 10 kg chicken per day, tiger 15 and wolves 2. However we settled for Almanian foods.















Irkutsk to Ol’khon island 

27 May

The scenery opened up as we got closer to the coast offering broad sweeping views, snow capped mountains and scattered forests. The ferry was all bit waiting so aboard we went. Easy dirt into town with new timber buildings everywhere, broad rutted dirt streets set the Wild West scene. Great feel in this place, worth battling the elements.


















Enroute to Mongolia now!



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