28th June
Best thing so far about Kazakhstan, is this bloke Paulo.
By chance we park outside a shopping centre in Somey in which our new best friend owns a restaurant. After chatting some what he invited us in for a coffee. We left about 1 1/2 to 2 hours later.
By chance we park outside a shopping centre in Somey in which our new best friend owns a restaurant. After chatting some what he invited us in for a coffee. We left about 1 1/2 to 2 hours later.
He first bought out pizza followed by ceaser salad tea coffee Pepsi Spring water and a smothie. He also spent 10 -15 minutes getting 3 SIM cards for us and as we had not cashed any money at this stage he paid for a months service.
Whilst his waiter was organising our phones he had the other young fellow organising a hotel. He then drove with us following to the hotel and making sure we where satisfied.
Whilst his waiter was organising our phones he had the other young fellow organising a hotel. He then drove with us following to the hotel and making sure we where satisfied.
Not only is he an absolute awesome dude, he has an interesting background. Italian and a chef but also studied in London, so speaks perfect English. Met his wife in Beijing, she is Russian and was studying there. But they live in Kazakhstan as that is where she is from.
29th June
Here at Semey, Kazakhstan the Soviets set up a testing ground exploding some 460 nuclear bombs thru the years 1949 to 1989 resulting in genetic mutations, cancers and weakening immune systems all for the development of the greater good. Thanks Lonely Planet that sets the scene!
So if your a movie buff and into mutants and Zombies this must be the place to hang out.....or scoot right through........Amy!
This is also the place btw where the writer Dostoyevsky was in military service and held captive for 5 years at a throw. He lived for a couple of more years with his wife and young child. So if any poetic licence is taken it’s either from the motivation of the hardship gained from an impoverished writer or the threat of zombies approaching.
Anyway back to the subject of why we are lingering.
It’s the first border town as we arrive in only our 3rd country on this soujourn.
Kazakhstan, is relatively unknown unless you follow Borat.
Our aim is to high tail it to the southern metropolitan city Almaty some 1000+kms south on some of the entire trips worst roads. A tar road that is more like grannies crochet. More holes than stitching, together with scenery that puts the great Aussie landscape to shame. Well that was the plan. Hightail it.
So if your a movie buff and into mutants and Zombies this must be the place to hang out.....or scoot right through........Amy!
This is also the place btw where the writer Dostoyevsky was in military service and held captive for 5 years at a throw. He lived for a couple of more years with his wife and young child. So if any poetic licence is taken it’s either from the motivation of the hardship gained from an impoverished writer or the threat of zombies approaching.
Anyway back to the subject of why we are lingering.
It’s the first border town as we arrive in only our 3rd country on this soujourn.
Kazakhstan, is relatively unknown unless you follow Borat.
Our aim is to high tail it to the southern metropolitan city Almaty some 1000+kms south on some of the entire trips worst roads. A tar road that is more like grannies crochet. More holes than stitching, together with scenery that puts the great Aussie landscape to shame. Well that was the plan. Hightail it.
So we arrived in Semey and looking to get some atm cash to kick start our entry into a new county, we pulled into a supermarket car park when we were immediately besieged by a guy and his pillion on a Honda 1000. Green of course. He asked us to participate in a bikers party, sounded like a 3 day event at destination unknown all at their expense. Hard to resist, well maybe 20+ years ago. Meanwhile another guys wander past, fluent in English asks a few questions and after a while invites us for a coffee in the restaurant we were outside. Paulo as it turns out owned the restaurant and after the best coffee in 2 months followed by Pizza, Caesar salad and a vanilla milkshake all on the house. He also got his staff to purchase and activated 3 phones with a Kaz. SIM cards and load them with credit and then he drove to while we followed him to the hotel. How good is that. We were stoked with his generosity and hospitality.
Good little mini vip hotel(as it was called) and so we parked the bikes and settled in.
Hours later our biker dude, now known as Gary and his girl Marriane turns up. That’s random.
He, again thru google turns out to be the president of the local biker club and we are now his honoured non paying guests to be hosted, hoteled, fed and watered if we would consent to ride with group tomorrow as his guest.
Well there goes tomorrow and we’ll see what unfolds. I have a full sized Aussie flag that Lenore has consented to be draped with. Flying the flag so to speak.
Love the randomness of travelling. Stay tuned.
Good little mini vip hotel(as it was called) and so we parked the bikes and settled in.
Hours later our biker dude, now known as Gary and his girl Marriane turns up. That’s random.
He, again thru google turns out to be the president of the local biker club and we are now his honoured non paying guests to be hosted, hoteled, fed and watered if we would consent to ride with group tomorrow as his guest.
Well there goes tomorrow and we’ll see what unfolds. I have a full sized Aussie flag that Lenore has consented to be draped with. Flying the flag so to speak.
Love the randomness of travelling. Stay tuned.
30 June
So big build for Friday night but nothing happened as we where lead to believe. nothing starts till Saturday don’t know if we where lead here on false promises or not but I don’t think so. The guy Gary was so genuine. So we planned to leave today but the people where so welcoming and disappointed that we where going that Kym managed to rebook our motorcycles service.
Now if a Russian offers you food or a drink it’s an offence to refuse. So in the elevator I was offered vodka before 12 I didn’t know what to do. They where already drunk and very big fellas, (my excuse, they where very friendly) so of course I agreed, now I’m in my room taking resting a little.
2nd July
We, Kym Osborne, Lenore Osborne shared a hotel suite with two bedrooms and I didn’t get stuck with Kym. So having time to talk I got some insights into Kazakhstan’s people.
Both Sasha’s mother and mother in law live in Russia. Russia has a noticeable better standard of living. I thus ask why she chose to live in Kazakhstan rather than Russia.
Both Sasha’s mother and mother in law live in Russia. Russia has a noticeable better standard of living. I thus ask why she chose to live in Kazakhstan rather than Russia.
The question was lost in translation, as she said that under the current president the Russians are happy as he protects their rights as not in places like Lithuania where the people stopped Russian language and education. So if the current president,read corrupt dictator, eventually dies then her and her friends may have to go back to Russia.
The north of the country appears Russian and pro Russia, where as she said the south don’t like Russia. Sorry but I love this stuff.
3rd July
Free hotel, food, drink, 1000 people camping site packed, starts Friday night bands. It was all happening. What was lost in translation I’m not sure, but he was such a lovely guy I don’t for one minute think he did wrong by us. Exaggerated to get us there maybe or purely lost in translation. He had no English.
Anyhow we got there Friday and the place was empty, thought the bands started that night. No. Maybe 400 to 500 on Saturday and half a dozen campers. Oh never saw the mayor either. So it wasn’t all it was made out to be, but I had a better time than I ever imagined.
Lots of these people had basic French German or English skills from school and a huge amount of them wanted to spend time with us struggling with English to talk. Loved them all. They convinced us to stay the extra day.
Saturday involved special events loudest bike, sexiest bike cleaner, wet shirt etc. Then the heavy metal started that night. If I get a chance I’ll post some short clips.
Saturday involved special events loudest bike, sexiest bike cleaner, wet shirt etc. Then the heavy metal started that night. If I get a chance I’ll post some short clips.
They gave us a six motorcycle escort out of town the next day. Special thanks to Gary for going to such lengths to get us there and special thanks to Sasha for so much, translator, organiser, all round great lady.
4th July
Piggies at the trough.
They pull over all tourists and find some excuse for a payment.In this case he said we didn’t have insurance for our motorcycles for Kazakhstan which we did only it was in Russian.
Anyway after wanting US $100 we got it down to 1200 local or $5 au. It’s a game that is played. Depending on how long you want to be there. Oh and you put the money in the centre consol whilst sitting in his office.
5th July
My fingers stumble over this minute keypad too tired to hit the right keys after all they have been flat chat accelerating or braking or both as we wove down the checkered wanna be Kazakhstan road. They are usually obedient and can rise to two finger salutes, lie patiently as the hammer comes surprising close or just flick channels with ease. One could consider them well trained.
But now they slip into disobedience. It is now that they are connected to the rest of the body and are easing into recovery mode. They are only one of the issues that are needy as any biker will testify after a long day in the saddle. The greater yet largely unspoken body part that should gain recognition but is rarely mentioned and one that never gains sympathy is the poor arse. Beneath that hi tech motorcycle kevlon padding is a tender, often inflamed body part that is crying for recognition. There is not a seat made that can offer comfort on a long trip. Add bounce, twists, hot, cold or pillions, the arse is going to cop it. There is no escape. This has been such a day. There are other famed roads, like the Road of Bones but this one has, with some 750+kms of potholes, bumps, burms and broken tar littered with cars and trucks replacing tyres or other parts has to on the Adventurers bucket list.
Still we survived arriving in a truckers stop and as David puts it“ in the middle of bum fuck”, dismounting we promised our arses not to even sniff that seat again. Well till morning.
The hotel was in the $2 range and at that was over priced. Upstairs, no ventilation hot n sweaty. Some time, musta have been just before 4am opening the door there was a slight cooling breeze. Ahh relief but short lived as to our surprise morning prayers in an adjacent room refused sleep shortly followed by that dreaded long drop toilet smells. Dreams came of a $30 luxury room awaiting in the next town some 300 kms away and the end of this arse road.
But now they slip into disobedience. It is now that they are connected to the rest of the body and are easing into recovery mode. They are only one of the issues that are needy as any biker will testify after a long day in the saddle. The greater yet largely unspoken body part that should gain recognition but is rarely mentioned and one that never gains sympathy is the poor arse. Beneath that hi tech motorcycle kevlon padding is a tender, often inflamed body part that is crying for recognition. There is not a seat made that can offer comfort on a long trip. Add bounce, twists, hot, cold or pillions, the arse is going to cop it. There is no escape. This has been such a day. There are other famed roads, like the Road of Bones but this one has, with some 750+kms of potholes, bumps, burms and broken tar littered with cars and trucks replacing tyres or other parts has to on the Adventurers bucket list.
Still we survived arriving in a truckers stop and as David puts it“ in the middle of bum fuck”, dismounting we promised our arses not to even sniff that seat again. Well till morning.
The hotel was in the $2 range and at that was over priced. Upstairs, no ventilation hot n sweaty. Some time, musta have been just before 4am opening the door there was a slight cooling breeze. Ahh relief but short lived as to our surprise morning prayers in an adjacent room refused sleep shortly followed by that dreaded long drop toilet smells. Dreams came of a $30 luxury room awaiting in the next town some 300 kms away and the end of this arse road.
David has covered the police corruption story and there will be more to come.
We had partied significantly less in Semey than our new made Kaz or Russian friends who have honed social drinking skills displayed and shared at the Moto..... party we participated as honoured guests.
The setting was delightful, new friends and the generosity of some is unbelievable. Language provide such barriers but with a little effort we appreciate the insight, tho at times small we can gain into others circumstances. Gary and Marriane inviting us and all the others welcoming strangers and sharing time is pretty good.
The setting was delightful, new friends and the generosity of some is unbelievable. Language provide such barriers but with a little effort we appreciate the insight, tho at times small we can gain into others circumstances. Gary and Marriane inviting us and all the others welcoming strangers and sharing time is pretty good.
Kazakhstan is our transit country known for its Steppes broad open plains. That didn’t disappoint tho I was fixated on the arse road and survival but the 6 lane cement freeway into Almaty is world class. As is this 2mill city. Bikes off with Bmw and has, my readers might like to know, is reunited with a shiny spanker new pannier. May we put that story to rest. Tim the English speaking product manager is fantastic leading me here and there. The paper work is enormous usually in sets of 4, each getting stamped and me signing sometimes 4 times on one piece. No stoned unturned. I wait to see the outcome of the service meanwhile in a bnb just chilling.
Bikes, rock roll, tits! The shirt Lenore couldn’t let slip.
17th July
Kyrg is Switzerland on steroids. The contrasting landscapes of 7000m mountains to fertile productive valleys, rushing rivers to desolate Stoney vistas always amazes.
People are friendly, kind and interested. And the food is good so what more is there!Staying in Karakol, great museum followed by a side trip towards Enilchek then along the hinterland of Issyk Kol lake to yurting at Ton. Met up with a master yurt builder Mekenbek who entertained us showing his inventive workshop, played his 3 string guitar spending hours with us. All fun.
From Ton we headed up to Son kul lake. The pass was only 3500m with a bit of ice but on an easy well maintained road. Stayed in a yurt being entertained by some kids. They dart around the place on a variety of horses and donkeys playing games and doing their chores. There is much laughter with their antics. A happy life. The lake surrounded by mountains, some snow capped some only made from rock are pretty inspiring. A all good package. Yep that’s me trading in my multi horse bmw for a single 4 legged cylinder without training wheels. I’m hanging on with great strength and determination whilst the kid is spinning around on the saddle like a trick rider at a show!
Next days heading to osh with some wonderful passes waiting.
18th July
From Lake Son Kul was a magnificent 2 day ride down to Kazakan and on to Osh. The road were gravel and fairly well kept as they are only opened for several months over summer. We confronted a tractor on a river pebble section and it was him, me or gravel. The gravel almost one but kept the pace down a bit after that.
Kids run out for a high five, cyclists predominately French and Belgium ply these roads for their summer fun demonstrating their insanity. Whereas the trucks hold right of way. The scenery and roads are a motorcyclist paradise. Wonderful vistas, productive valleys where farmers on mass are making hay with horse drawn machinery or pitch fork in hand adds to the rural ness.Back to blacktop meant policed speed limits and the randomness of drivers. Osh of some 3000 years does not show its age except as another city. Maps me and google didn’t deliver as they should so frustration in 38 heat took its tool but eventually with the help of a taxi and later a beer it was all good.
It is hard to imagine that to get some thing like a new camera for Lenore took over 8 shops to find any model and me to get chain oil took 2 days. ‘We do not have this in our city’ oh well.
Tjakastan today. It’s been great.
19th July
Kyrgyzstan done n dusted!
We had travelled from OSH on a fairly decent run through ever changing valley floor and over the magnificent ‘Thankful pass’. Where did it earn that name? We made good time and as we approached Saty-Tash we decided to keep pressing as the lure of a magnificent snow draped 7000m+ range drew us on. So higher up into the mountains we went until an inevitable boom gate and a couple of sheds trying to hide behind a small wire fence is all that this border crossing offered.
Leaving Kyrgyzstan was a 2 part process. The first required a motorcycle entrance fee of 10US$ to leave. Go figure.
We had travelled from OSH on a fairly decent run through ever changing valley floor and over the magnificent ‘Thankful pass’. Where did it earn that name? We made good time and as we approached Saty-Tash we decided to keep pressing as the lure of a magnificent snow draped 7000m+ range drew us on. So higher up into the mountains we went until an inevitable boom gate and a couple of sheds trying to hide behind a small wire fence is all that this border crossing offered.
Leaving Kyrgyzstan was a 2 part process. The first required a motorcycle entrance fee of 10US$ to leave. Go figure.
- [x] Squatting outside a man yelled something and another casual cameo dressed guy appeared and entered the first building. We began to follow him while he barked instructions for us to remove our our boots to cover the 2m to the desk where the processing happens. His old steel filing cabinet discarded in the corner was plastered with stickers, the wall lined with A4 notices suggested this posting wasn’t a career move. This process didn’t take long before we had to move our bikes to the other side where the boom gate led to Norman’s land.
- [ ] As we were being processed the usual discussion of kangaroos but this went on to something about Spanish. We shrugged not knowing nufing!
As it turned out the border guards were trying to get rid of a problem. This Spanish guy who became known as Joseph was abandoned by a taxi, could not renter Kyzastan and had no way of travelling to the Tajikistan border. He became our hitchhiker and with rearranging luggage on both bikes David finally had his desired pillion. So now a foursome we happily headed off.
The scenery in this area is a snow covered desolate high mountainous region. Hit the Kyzyl-art pass at 4280m short of breath and defended 200m to a ramschakle group of buildings arriving at Tajikistan border control.
The boom gate was opened and we moved the bikes into the zone and entered a tiny 2 room shed. The first housed the business end, the second 4 bunk beds. The paper work was easy tho all manual even down to ripping the piece to keep with a ruler. A warm handshake and a welcome to Tajikistan. Another similar office, quarantine this time for a quick bike environmental spray cost us $10US before skirting around a series of burnt out buildings. This paper work for transport cost us $9US then we had to enter a forth paying $10US for customs duty. Well this became death by a thousand lashes. Not yet free to go, there was one more tax for the environment that of $7US then finally Tjak here we come. Lucky we had prepaid for our visas.
So now as a foursome off we took following a substantial bar wire fence line bordering China. The gravel road was good and thoughts of getting to Murghab for a beer and hot shower was only hours away when this thought was shattered when our path had been halted by ever increasing snow melting river breaking a bridge and entrapping a truck mid stream blocking all future travellers. Whilst we were skirting the wide river moraine a utz Russian truck gave the crossing a go only to have its arse severely submerged. Well the go anywhere truck certainly wasn’t. David And Lenore looking further a field lower down where the river pans out but the obstacle then became negotiating the exit. It was time to get feet wet so I plunged in looking for a fording point to make that inevidable decision. By the time advice was given to a 4WD to cross at this point and then braving it to cross, the river had risen significantly. Panniers dropped and I drove the bike whilst the other two stood shotgun. Success. David, perhaps by getting rear wheel spray from my bike rode his across. Panniers were reunited with the bike then on to Karakul Lake for a home stay. What beautiful setting tho breathless at 3900m and bunking down on the floor in this pleasant tho packed home stay is a great introduction to Tajikistan.
Now on the Pamirskiy TraktHwy 41. Yaaaa
- [ ] As we were being processed the usual discussion of kangaroos but this went on to something about Spanish. We shrugged not knowing nufing!
As it turned out the border guards were trying to get rid of a problem. This Spanish guy who became known as Joseph was abandoned by a taxi, could not renter Kyzastan and had no way of travelling to the Tajikistan border. He became our hitchhiker and with rearranging luggage on both bikes David finally had his desired pillion. So now a foursome we happily headed off.
The scenery in this area is a snow covered desolate high mountainous region. Hit the Kyzyl-art pass at 4280m short of breath and defended 200m to a ramschakle group of buildings arriving at Tajikistan border control.
The boom gate was opened and we moved the bikes into the zone and entered a tiny 2 room shed. The first housed the business end, the second 4 bunk beds. The paper work was easy tho all manual even down to ripping the piece to keep with a ruler. A warm handshake and a welcome to Tajikistan. Another similar office, quarantine this time for a quick bike environmental spray cost us $10US before skirting around a series of burnt out buildings. This paper work for transport cost us $9US then we had to enter a forth paying $10US for customs duty. Well this became death by a thousand lashes. Not yet free to go, there was one more tax for the environment that of $7US then finally Tjak here we come. Lucky we had prepaid for our visas.
So now as a foursome off we took following a substantial bar wire fence line bordering China. The gravel road was good and thoughts of getting to Murghab for a beer and hot shower was only hours away when this thought was shattered when our path had been halted by ever increasing snow melting river breaking a bridge and entrapping a truck mid stream blocking all future travellers. Whilst we were skirting the wide river moraine a utz Russian truck gave the crossing a go only to have its arse severely submerged. Well the go anywhere truck certainly wasn’t. David And Lenore looking further a field lower down where the river pans out but the obstacle then became negotiating the exit. It was time to get feet wet so I plunged in looking for a fording point to make that inevidable decision. By the time advice was given to a 4WD to cross at this point and then braving it to cross, the river had risen significantly. Panniers dropped and I drove the bike whilst the other two stood shotgun. Success. David, perhaps by getting rear wheel spray from my bike rode his across. Panniers were reunited with the bike then on to Karakul Lake for a home stay. What beautiful setting tho breathless at 3900m and bunking down on the floor in this pleasant tho packed home stay is a great introduction to Tajikistan.
Now on the Pamirskiy TraktHwy 41. Yaaaa
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