#3 Russia - Vladivostok to Khabarovsk

The sun brought warmth unkown till now. Bikes saddled we set off....the magnificent Siberian 7 minus Amy. She had trained to meet her commitment with bmw Gs trophy in Mongolia. We will catch her there .

Bikes humming as we crossed the bridge offering the most spectacular views of Vlad as we headed off. The road was magnificent. This was to continue all the way to Khab. Punctuated with numerous road works, unannounced pot holes that you would disappear into or bumps. Traffic flies by, cars move to the right so you can pass easily even when other cars are oncoming. No stress but similar to GTA without the sirens.

We had only planned to get 250kms under our belt before tradegy struck. You’ll have to wait for that story before it’s released.

So here we are at our destination, of the highway in a town of about 30k. It has seen better days but now houses a monster cement factory and optical work.

The Lotus hotel, deluxe room was not quite that, only room available.

#2 Vladivostok - So The Adventure Begins

Well the rewards are there for those who wait. And wait we did on the exhausting flight Adelaide, Sydney, Shanghai and on to Vladivostok.

Transfer with taxi was easy without demonstrating too many language skills. Check in a comfy down town hotel then hit the streets.

Great talking to some girls in their fluent English in a tourist shop about politics and being Russian.

Hunt for a SIM card took us to the down side alleys, underground in a maze of shops and in doing so meeting some nice people. Running into our groups David was fun as him and Amy met us in the coolest of music bars decorated and steeped in music deco.

On the street primed with beers and good food to discover the military might of Russia in the form of a practice for a forthcoming victory day celebration. The calling of the generals standing tall saluting in their open ancient Rolls with the soldiers responding echoed down the boulevards. More thought out words later but here’s a glance. 

#1 Two-Up - Prologue

It is time for a new adventure.

It is T- 3 days until we fly out of Adelaide and in to Vladivostok, Russia after going through China..

It has been a mad rush getting the house, property and ourselves organised to head off, and I have to admit we are feeling pretty overwhelmed. There are so many things to think about.

We are an adventurous Australian couple in our 60s who are spending the next 6 months on our BMW F800 GS 2014. The plan is to ride through Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Turkey, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Albania, Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia. That's the plan, but the exciting part is that you never know what might happen.

The bikes were shipped in April from Australia, via South Korea, to Russia. There are 6 bikes heading over for 7 of us. We filled our panniers with all our gear including helmets and boots as well as tents and sleeping bags. There isn't going to be a whole lot of room for any clothing.

We are experienced travellers, but this adventure is going to test us, both in endurance and get us stepping well outside of our comfort zone. Its a good thing that neither of us are afraid of meeting new people or trying new food.

There will be a lot of firsts; a lot of making it up as we go along; and a lot of photographs taken.

Home is pretty spectacular, but I cannot wait to come back and share our experiences with our friends and family and hopefully encourage others and if they wish, to go on an adventure.

Editor: Sinead

21 @ BMW Colorado club ride.

This is my last blog. So for that lone person out there who cares you will now have to find something else to read and ponder on.

This day was the eve of my 60th so I have to speed on! If only I had known there was yet another intervention on the way.

Met with the club members, Jeff the President was very hospitable and we all shared coffee. We were in Morrison, not the Red Rock Grill where we had lunch the day before but across the road outside under a verandah. There were about 20 or so members but the group I followed out of town were all dirt bikes, but no matter. We did the Peak to Peak ride stopping for a break at Netherlands...again. We were joined here briefly by other group members. 

Five of us soldiered on stopping for lunch in Esters Park. We split and went with two of the guys, Monty and Greg also being keen to ride the pass and return to Denver via Winter Park. Could hardly refuse this ride as just a few days before we attempted this in inclement weather. We entered the park as a threesome, and before long were tailing another three bikes. Passing cars rather quickly in the limited passing zones kept us together. This is the go, just saying that for those who only travel in cars.

Just after the summit this proved to be a wrong decision. Monty followed the three bikes in front kept the pace up pass another car. Running out of passing lane quickly and wanting to keep together I hoofed it. There was another vehicle coming up the range but no probs I had the acceleration. We continued down the range and some distance on I noticed a Rangers car following me with Greg tailing him. I couldn't remember passing him? Before long lights flashed the now familiar colours alternating red and blue! Greg passed me and the other riders in front disappeared.

Suspicion mixed with doubt ran through my mind as I pulled over. Got off the bike and took my helmet off when an abrupt voice told me take the bike to the other side of the road in the passing lane? Well, Ok then! Did that, got off the bike and started walking towards the rangers car still not completely sure what the problem was. Abruptly was told to get back to the bike by a nervous authoritative voice! A bit weird but okay. Out steps a nervous youngish ranger, told me I was doing 31 mls over the speed limit?  What, really! I was just trying to keep up with my 'new found friends'! He kept his 2m distance, it was his space and I wasn't going to encroach, his hand as Lenore noticed, was hovering around his hip. Asked to produce my licence I went for my top inside pocket which made him wide eyed. He retreated back to his car eye-balling me the entire time. Emerging he asked if I have a bike licence. Confused worried soul!

Am I carrying a firearm, drugs or alcohol? Passport was demanded. I fished in the top box of the bike, he stepped back and watched suspiciously with his hand hovering! 

Back to the car, microphone in hand, writing furiously. Upon his return I stepped forward and was demanded to get back to the bike. It took me a few times to get the drift!

What a nervous bloke! A caution notice was given, thanks for my cooperation and he was off. 

Shaken we remounted and headed down the range. Our new found friendship, we thought was short lived but some respectable distance later there they were waiting keen to hear the news! US bikers stick together, even at a distance!

I was asked to lead which I did with care until the others, bored riding at that pace switched places and let me chase them. No one rides to speed limits in the US but obviously there is some insider knowledge.

Coffee in a roasting shop prior to Winterpark, over the range in the wet and on highway 70, a wave goodbye and time to return the bike.

Bill Smith's Colorado tour bikes company was good, easy, with nice bikes. I would recommended him if anyone wanted to do the same. Sad to finish the ride, felt like we qualified for an Iron Butt award with doing some 3000 miles in the most diverse, fantastic scenery I have ridden yet. The USA seen has ticked all the boxes!

The rest of our trip includes celebratory dinner in the Stanley hotel, a trip over the Rocky mountain and the usual finish of holiday stuff.

I know I should have taken time to add details, burden your with statistics, times, dates and facts. But this set of stories don't need credibility cos that's the way it happened. 

Declan, he got us here and now he's been delivered to CSU, and with a kiss n drop he's on his own. What with his mother's formative guidance and my looks and smarts he'll do much of what I/we have, but that's not part of this story. We will miss his humour, his fun, his hunger, his wingman ship but February and his return will come around quick.

Lenore has done us all proud as a biker sidekick, sitting still, quite as a mouse (thankfully no communication system installed) and being key accommodation and event organiser. Her GoPro antics and photography will keep us rivereted to the big screen for months, for those who want to drop in? Advanced warnings or wine for viewing required! Onya Lenore!

To share this story however has happened because Sinead has been at the epicentre of technology, receiving text and random pictures and stitching them together in a way that over here with limited internet would have failed. Let the world thank her.

So the travels have been what the Doctor would have prescribed and after all the wanderings I am posting this just after my 60th birthday having not just Givimsixty but I got to sixty!

To that, thanks for following. 

I'll drink to that.

Cheers

Going into The Rocky Mountain Park later with Declan and Lenore we hesitated in an alpine pullover area and there was Mr Ranger man. I snuck a picture to include. Never make friends or trust men with a moustache! 

20 @Winter park to Mt Evans, Morrison, Netherlands, and back to Morrison

With another day come new weather and to cross Berthoud pass 11'314' was going to be a treat with its dry road, good surfaces and long sweepers. It lived up to that and within the hour we were at Idaho Springs and up to Mt Evans. The road to the top offered views 500 miles in any direction. This is the highest paved road in the USA, though lacking in condition wasn't a criticism. 

Mt Evans at 14,624' took your breath away. We stopped at glacier lake. My stomach was reminding me if the glorious meal of the previous night. Continued to wind upwards. Amazed at the number of cyclists plumbing their way to the top, out numbered by bikers than sightseers.

At the summit was the remains of a building built in 1937-41 destroyed by propane in 1979 and pro-ported to be the highest building in the world! Photo opportunities prevailed and to stand up to the challenge we began the trudge to the top. A short but arduous journey with oxygen being in short supply. The views, well check out the pictures.

Tired of being short in breath and sick in stomach, curse that meal and thinness of air we descended and took a scenic route to Morrison and hit the Red Rock grill. I wanted to find out where the BMW club of Colorado were meeting tomorrow. The ride was fantastic. The burger a little less. Knowing that the bike is coming toward the end of its journey with us, we continued on to do some of the Peak to Peak ride. Past Evergreen, up through Canyon City, a smaller version of Las Vegas, and on to Netherlands! Mad Max would be right at home here! I heard the following day that a grandpa died here, hoping to be brought back to life later had his body put on ice being maintained by his nephew. The nephew had to go overseas so the neighbour gave a helping hand. A movie was made from this story, or so the story went! Refuelled, looked at the foreboding clouds and retreated to a hotel near Morrison.

19 @ Ester park over the range to Winter Park

Do you want to really want to know that we had 0 visibility crossing the great divide? That it was cold and wet, slippery with no guard rails, all making minimal enjoyment? The upside is knowing we're in beautiful country and don't know exactly how steep the drop off is! 

We expect to come back to Esters Park so there was no hesitation in leaving. Into the Rocky Mountain National Park we went, boy those yearly passes are good value. 
Up to Bear Lake and walk up to Emerald Lake. The puffing in altitude, dressed like a biker is as not as much fun as sitting on the bike staring at the white line keeping away from the drop off best you can. Lenore, my GoPro on the back, swivels from side to side and even to the back like she is gambled whilst I keep the ship steady! She has become the chief photographer in this expedition whilst the iPad and I have shown a fraction of that captured for the blog.
The Lakes were grand but more so the scenic journey and totality of it all. We are at The Lakes, well let's climb the pass. This and other such high mountain passes close on the 2nd September so timing was perfect...except for today. We hesitated at the summit for a picture for the blog readers, another sacrifice!

We continued on trying to get to a warmer and drier environment. Out of the park we stopped at a diner for lunch. The weather got worse. The heated grips and seat did little warming as we rode strait though Granby. At Winter Park we stopped, saturated and cold knowing there was a pass in front of us. Our shortest ride to date. The accommodation was more chalet style and lying around the room resting we listened to the doof doof from the restaurant below. We trust that won't continue!
A while later a fire alarm sounded in our room and corridor. Loud is not understanding the volume penetrating rocking the building. It got us up and interested in doing some dinner (downstairs was the easiest option). Seated at the table, water delivered, menu pricey, hesitating and off goes the alarm again. Well F# me. In comes fire men stomping through in their fluros. No bugger it! Yep, I spat it and got up and left muttering something to the waitress. Meagre apology? Out the front door and onto the front lawn the manager chases us down and offers a sincere apology. I grunt! I grunt again. He offers a complete dinner, wines and all to make me happy! The grunting subsided. So we return and to keep a little face, sit in the front room on comfy lounge room style chairs. Well what followed was a Italian influenced meal with un-proportional service and delectable delights. From the cocktails, wines, lemoncello, to the home made pasta, pork belly, to lemon citrus and chocolate something! The best pasta ever. It was fantastic. A true dining experience, our best by far in the States. At no cost except the $50 tip! We slept well that night, window open, stream gurgling outside and no fire men!